How To Remove Cross Threaded Lug Nut
Removing a seized or cross threaded lug nut.
I am not really sure how the heck this happened, only I somehow managed to cantankerous thread a lug nut when I installed the Bogarts well-nigh two weeks ago for a track outing. I was swapping the street tires back on to the car late last week and when I went to remove one of the nuts on the rear left wheel it initially broke free and and then stopped turning. I tried rocking it back and forth with a breaker bar and so hitting it with the air impact. All I managed to do was spin the stud in the axle flange thereby compounding my problem. In all my years wrenching on cars, this is the get-go time this has e'er happened. The Bogarts utilise a shouldered lug nut with a washer and are open on the end, every bit shown in the first flick. The seized lug nut is in the superlative right of the bicycle picture -- I worked on information technology with one other lug nut installed simply to concord the wheel in place. I began past center punching the cycle stud to help go along my drill chip in the middle of the stud every bit I started drilling.
Starting with a small precipitous drill bit, and paying careful attention to the angle of the drill in society to stay centered in the stud, I began drilling. I made a depth gauge with a zip tie and a piece of tape to ensure that I would be drilling deep plenty to get just past the length of the lug nut. After the kickoff hole was drilled to the proper depth, I began stepping up the drill sizes. Between drills, I used my Store Vac to suck out the chips and besides applied some oil to the larger drill bits. If you always accept to practice this, be very careful that you practice non snap a drill chip off in the hole or yous could really accept a tough fourth dimension of it. The bits started catching on the lug nut threads as I approached my final size and twice I had to use a pair of vice grips to extract the flake from the pigsty. At this point, I applied a few strips of duct tape on the bicycle and middle cap to protect the end. But shy of the thread diameter the lug nut finally broke gratis. I worked up in modest increments, probably using somewhere around 12 to 14 different drill sizes -- patience is fundamental in a process like this.
I will now take to remove the brakes, bankroll plate, and ABS sensor in order to pull the axle and change out the studs. While I am at information technology, I volition order longer studs from ARP every bit the Moser studs were just legal for our track. I believe they crave that at least the diameter of the stud extend beyond the face of the wheel. I would notation that had these been airtight face acorn style lug basics that I probably would have ground the top of the nut off to access the stud for drilling. Here is what I have after removing the wheel:
Source: https://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/removing-seized-cross-threaded-lug-nut-159243/
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